Walking down Republic Street (known as Kings Way during the British time, and Strada Reale before that), we note the various Auberges (home of the different Langues of the Order, now occupied by government ministries and offices of the President and the Prime Minister), and visit St. John's Co-Cathedral (built 1573-78), conventual church of the Order and home to Caravaggio's masterpiece "Beheading of St. John" and "St. Jerome". From St. John's we walk to the tip of Valletta, near the Sacre Infermeria (the Knights' hospital, with the longest hospital ward of its time), and catch up with all the Maltese history we didn't have time to read about before we left home for the EuroRev Conference! 'The Malta Experience' is an excellent historical summary of Malta's 7,000 years of history (all in 45 minutes!) and helps us place all the conglomerate and colourful pieces of Malta's history and heroes in proper chronological context.
It is definitely time for a lunch break now, and we will do this on Republic Street at Caffe Cordina located at Queen's Square, flanked by the National Library (Bibliotecca) and next to the Grandmasters' Palace, chaperoned by the imposing statue of Queen Victoria (adorned and decorated by pigeons with regal aspirations). After lunch, we will have a tour of the elegant Manoel Theatre, built at the instruction of Grandmaster Manoel de Vilhena in 1731, to keep the naughty knights out of mischief (it didn't work). It is, however, one of the oldest continuously operating theatres in Europe, and its history is as colourful and varied as the flamboyant knights whose attention it was meant to divert. Our day concludes with a tour of the National Museum of Archaeology (formerly the Auberge de Provence), where we can marvel at the beautiful building as well as the impressive remains of the Neolithic ancestors of this multi-cultural island.
Neolithic temples of Hagar Qim and Mnajdra (3600-3000BCE) We begin our day with a visit to the ancient temples in the southeast of the island. See the extreme care these ancient peoples took in decorating the immense limestone slabs which were placed with such architectural precision. People who designed with symmetry, circular chambers, the concept of corbeling, semicircular pitting designs in the limestone...all without the use of any metal tools! All crafted by using instruments of bone, stone, and obsidian.
Entering from the Main Gate over a dry moat, we see Vilhena Palace (constructed in 1730, and now the Museum of Natural History), Casa Inguanez (residence of the oldest Maltese noble family), the Benedictine Nunnery (a cloistered order), the Banca Giuratale (built in 1730, which housed the Universita - the old parliament), and reach St. Paul's Square, the city's main square. The great earthquake of 1693 caused the enlargement of the square to its present size and the rebuilding and enlargement of the Mdina Cathedral. Built by Maltese architect, Lorenzo Gafa, the Cathedral is considered to be his finest work. The two belfries contain six bells which date from 1370 to 1643, and it is a treat to be in the square at 12 noon when they announce the time! The brass cannon to the right of the Cathedral was brought to Malta by the Knights of St. John when they resettled following their ousting from Rhodes, and is one of the oldest cannons on the island.
The awesome Cathedral Museum with its Baroque design, was first built as a Seminary in 1733 and now exhibits a wide collection of artifacts from Roman times, to the Siculo-Norman choir panels (c.1481), a numismatic collection of coins from every period of Maltese history, from the Phoenician to the British...but many visitors' favourite exhibition in this elegant building is the outstanding collection of woodcuts by Albrecht Durer (1471-1521), which includes the complete series of "The Life of the Virgin".
Palazzo Falzon (also known as Norman House) is the most complete of Mdina's medieval buildings. Built c.1495 it has currently undergone an extensive renovation. Characteristics of Siculo-Norman architecture are the beautiful double windows divided by slender colonettes, and the double line of pendant triangles which emphasize the building line between ground and first floors.
Moving on to Bastion Square, we have a wonderful vantage point from which to enjoy a sweeping view of nearly half the island. Mosta, with its large church dome, St. Paul's Bay, and even Valletta can easily be identified on a clear day. On the opposing ridge is Mtarfa, where once stood a temple to Proserpina, Queen of the Underworld (daughter of Zeus and Demeter).
Wine Tasting! An additional option...
A visit to Malta's finest wine estate...Meridiana...located just below the medieval walled city of Mdina. Tour their state-of-the-art winery and sample their award winning reds and exceptional whites. You can easily taste the results of their passion for excellence. With names like Isis, Melqart, Bel, and Nexus...the ancient gods could hardly look upon them with disfavour!
You can even purchase a few bottles of your favorites to take home with you.
For an additional fee of Euro 20 ($25 USD) per person
Gozo The smaller, gentler agricultural sister island, home to Calypso and Ulysses, during their seven-year tryst on his way home from the Peloponnesian Wars. Come and see the caves where it all happened...and the superb view of Ramla Bay with its red sand below the cave.
Ta' Kola Windmill, built by the Knights in 1725, now housing an interesting collection of antique tools and equipment. And a short distance away, Ggantija temples, the oldest of Malta's large neolithic structures (c.3600-3300BCE), which, according to the old legend was built by a giantess named "Sunsuna" who carried the megaliths several miles from Ta' Cenc to Xaghra using only one hand...as she was carrying an infant on her hip with the other hand!
Drive from Xaghra to Marsalforn...along the ancient Salt Pans...and on to Victoria, Gozo's capital (quaint, sleepy, and small compared to imposing Valletta), and an ascent to the Citadel, a late medieval fortress, strengthened by the Knights in the 17th century. Gozo sustained so many attacks by pirates and slave ships that the Order required all farmers and their families to sleep at the 'Gran Castello' at night and return to their fields by day. There are still a few families, descendants of earlier times, who live at the Citadel, but no one is allowed to move in to this space now.
Similarly positioned to Mdina, the Citadel rises high on a hill in approximately the centre of the island, and there is a magnificent view of all of Gozo from its bastions. It is fun to take a map of Gozo and walk around the bastions, stopping frequently to match map to landscape and identify the various villages.
If you are interested in authentic, very beautiful hand made bobbin lace, the Citadel has an excellent and very reliable shop with an overwhelming selection.
From the Citadel, we drive to Dwejra Point at the western side of the island. There are three interesting and attractive natural features here:
Fungus Rock - where the Knights harvested the highly prized 'Fungus Gaulitanus', a rare plant with strong healing powers for blood disorders. The knights were very serious about their fungus, and kept the rock under constant surveillance, punishing severely anyone who tried to reach the rock without permission. They even went as far as to sheer off the sides of the rock, thus making it even more formidable to climb and necessitating a hoist and basket system to ferry across the approved persons.
Inland Sea - offering a calm and peaceful swimming area, perfect for little children, protected from the winds and rough waters which at times prevail beyond the small natural tunnel which connects it to the greater Mediterranean. In summer, small boats take visitors through this narrow opening, into the Mediterranean to see the many phosphorescent sea caves, evocative of the sirens and sea nymphs - relatives of Calypso!
Azure Window - two giant columns of limestone are capped with an equally large slab, forming a mammoth arch. The action of winds and waves has created this beautiful portal over thousands of years. On the walk to see it, don't forget to look down and appreciate the ancient fossils of sand dollars and various shells which are imbedded in the limestone, right on the surface, making you think you can wrest them from their repose...but alas, looks are sometimes most deceiving! There they have been for thousands of years, and there they will remain for thousands more.
Time now to head back to Mgarr to catch the Gozo Channel ferry for our 30 minute voyage, returning us to Malta. The three-day tour of Malta and Gozo is concluded. Now most of us will have dinner and pack, and prepare for our departure tomorrow. However, if you are staying on, and would like some advice or information about other places to visit, please talk to Cloe. There are so many wonderful things to see and do which we haven't had time for!
For the Shopaholics among us:
Best Buys in Malta ~ Silver filigree jewelry - Hand-blown glass - Some pottery - Watercolours and watercolour prints (scenes of Malta and Gozo) - Liqueur made from prickly pear, or honey - Weaving (small rugs, table runners) - Malta Weave (tablecloths, napkins, place mats...country look, great for picnics 'n casual dining)
Best Buys in Gozo ~ Honey - Capers - Hand made bobbin lace - Knit wear (sweaters, jumpers, panchos, caps, baby slippers+clothes) - Hand-blown glass - Weaving (small rugs, table runners)